 GRECO-ROMAN
Draped or tied garments of various lengths depending on job
or social station. Original materials include wool, linen,
leather, brass, copper, silver and gold ornament. Elaborate
jewelry and armour. Animal skins were used for certain priests
and army standard bearers. Costuming today has added crepe,
man-made drapable fabrics and vacuum formed armour.
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BIBLICAL
Natural, rough woven fabrics, some in striped pattern were
the most common. Also animal skins, leather and felt. Characters
such as the Wisemen, King Herod or Pontius Pilate should have
elaborate dress & overdress, having more than one layer of
garment. Border designs, jewelry and appropriate headwear
complete the costume. Roman soldiers and Temple guards are
often added as are angels, members of the Sanhedrin and the
Temple High Priest.
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MEDIEVAL
General term to cover knights in armour and ladies of the
Courts of Love. Depending on the show, costumes can be rough,
barbaric, monotoned and patched, or brightly colored as in
Camelot. Armour or pieces of armour again in the appropriate
character, fur trimming and leather are excellent accent. |
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GENERAL RENAISSANCE
High waisted look with many sleeve styles for ladies. Brocade,
damask, stripes mixed with solid colors in slashing, applique,
etc., and trimmed with novelty braids. Older men wear robes
or capes over tunics. Hats are worn inside, as well as out,
by both sexes. Other men wear a variety of tunics from just
above the knee to a short peplum version. A lot of sleeve
detail is evident and again fur trimming and jewelry are important. |
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LATE RENAISSANCE
Tudor England and the North Countries and Elizabethan through
James I. Stuffed, padded, square look for both sexes. Very
geometrical. Elaborate patterns in the fabrics, which are
heavy. Various pants for the men: slops, pumpkin hose, German
slashings, etc. Heads are covered for all classes. Splendid
jewelry for the upper classes. Tremendous use of fur and more
feather trimming than had been the case earlier. Farthingales
and hip pads in use. |
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BAROQUE
Three quarters of the 17th Century and about 20 years of the 18th Century.
French Century in reality as Spain and England lose fashion
dominance. Cavaliers under Charles I in England and Louis
XIII and Richelieu in France ending in the personal styles
of Louis XIV in dress, decoration and manners. Musketeers,
courtiers, Puritans, explorers, pirates, scientists, artists,
musicians and scalawags combine to make this very active period
memorable. New industries made a wider use of fabrics available.
Velvets, satin, moire, damasks, brocades, stripes, and a great
use of lace and ribbon. Feathers in abundance, some curled,
some not, knots, bows, metal finials, buttons, all combined
in a fantastic way which somehow worked. Never falling into
unmasculine or unladylike confusion. Perhaps offset by necessary
additions like capes, leather long boots and shoes (to keep
the mud manageable), hooded capes, over the shoulder swordbelts,
belts and sashes in general to hold it all together and pockets
in profusion. All this contrasted by the workers and middle
class who keep the silhouette as much as possible. (The Pilgrim's
hat is as wide as he can manage, his coat as long).
Wigs
began to be used earlier, but at 35, Louis XIV began to wear
them and they remained in fashion for a hundred years. In
English courts they remain a statement today.
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 18th CENTURY
Nearly the entire Century had a similar look in Europe and
the Americas until the last decade, which had some neoclassical
beginnings. The panniers widened and narrowed, as did the
skirts of men's coats. The vest was a staple, be it short
or long. We have the three piece suit established, though
the materials may differ in the three pieces. Pattern designs
became more subtle, smaller. Everything was less grand, more
intimate, conversation, to a degree, replaced pomp.
The beginning of revolution and philosophy towards the common
man was reflected in costume. Fully appropriate was Benjamin
Franklin in Quaker dress visiting Marie Antoinette, though
not at Versailles. The Enlightenment applied to garments as
well as thought. |
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EMPIRE
Associated, of course, with Napoleon, but having it's fashion
start in the interest in Greece and Rome at the end of the
18th Century. High waisted dresses with small sleeves were
the norm, frequently without undergarments. These were accompanied
by bonnets of various shapes, caps, and shawls or stoles.
They were often decorated with Greek border designs or all-over
motifs. The men, too, had high waisted outfits with vests,
sashes, or both, and tight trousers to the knee or ankle.
Standing armies in Europe developed regimental dress in every
country and this was reflected in the costume of civilians.
There were hussar knots, military short coats, and odd little
hats which echoed the uniforms. Beaver top hats were popular
and remained so for a hundred years. Children began to have
their own fashions instead of being dressed as small adults. |
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ROMANTIC
Elaborate hats and bonnets, wide puffed or double sleeves,
high waists, Bertha collars and skirts, very wide at the bottom
and shorter, worn over petticoats, formed the basic lady's
look.
Mens' fashions were very wide shoulders with gathered sleeves
at the shoulder and a nipped-in waist. They wore long pants,
narrower at the bottom. A preponderance of plaids and checks
appeared, along with various hats, including one form or another
of the staple top hat. Soft ties over elaborate shirting with
high collars were used. |
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CRINOLINE
"Gone With The Wind", for most people, clarifies the style.
At first, just lots of petticoats, and then hoops of various
materials AND petticoats made the wonderful shape possible.
The shape, we associate with Queen Victoria, the Second French
Empire, and the era before and during the American Civil War.
The shape includes a natural shoulder, very small waist, elaborate
sleeves, and an immense skirt. The neckline is low for evening
and high for daytime. Bonnets, wide-brimmed straws, and the
Eugenie were the hats of choice, trimmed with silk flowers,
ribbons, feathers, and fruit in tasteful combinations.
Men added to their tailcoat wardrobe, the frock coat and the
"Sack" suit. The first mass produced acceptable man's garment,
the suit, is still with us. A "suit" need not be made of matching
pieces. The drab had not yet conquered. |
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THE BUSTLE
In general, best describes as the skirt being pulled to the
back and worn over a cushion or cage to support the folds,
draping, and decoration. The bustle went through several rebirths;
it could be very large or just a slight "interest" at the
rear of the costume. The earlier versions were just pulling
back and tying the hoops of the previous period. Around 1880,
they returned in an extreme form.
Graceful in less extreme style, the silhouette presented a
tight top with natural shoulders and tight sleeves, a small
waist (sometimes high), and a flatfront skirt with draping
to the rear and, usually, sporting a train. Heavy ornamentation
was used, gimp, fringe, balls, ribbon, lace, etc. New dyes
had come into use and some garish combinations appeared. Hats
were small but elaborate.
Men continued their suit collection, but lost most color.
The cutaway was popular, as well as the previous styles. Bowler
and straw hats began to compete with the top hat, but not
for serious business. |
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GAY NINETIES
Sometimes call Victorian. A certain mannishness appears in
lady's day costume. High necked in the daytime, very low for
evening wear. Combinations (suits) of jackets and skirts with
"Gibson Girl" blouses. The skirts were fuller at the bottom
and back, the coats, with sleeve interest, were usually gathered
and often padded or with capelette touches. Cameos or ties
could be worn to set off the outfit. Plaids, checks, and stripes
were used, as well as plainer fabrics. Hats were small to
medium, with the end of the period producing fairly large
versions. Accessories included muffs and furs, and feather
boas. Evening dress was smashing right up to World War I.
Men's dress remained conservative except for the addition
of sports costumes: cycling, boating, tennis, the usual riding
outfit, and the comfortable Norfolk suit for non-formal occasions.
Evening dress for men remained the tailsuit with some leeway
in the choice of vest. |
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1910-1914
Several influences combined to make this an interesting, if
odd period. Turkish design, Japanese patterns and kimonos,
and Grecian draped examples were combined to form a look,
not always successfully. But when it was successful, it was
stunning. In general, skirts were higher, showing the ankle
and narrow at the hem. Various ways to allow movement were
employed: slits, overlapping, double skirts. The neckline
was lower and could be scooped or square, almost always with
decoration or a collar around it. Hats became huge, wide and
high, but there were also turbans, bandeaux, and horsehair
versions. Daytime jewelry was classified as "important" and
handbags were large.
The three piece suit became a uniform for those men not in
actual military service, and remains so today. |
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ROARING TWENTIES
Social change quickly followed the Great War. The relaxing
of class differences, the shared suffering, the fall of three
Empires, and women's increased presence in the workplace created
a mood open to change in dress as in everything else. Influences
from China, Ancient Egypt (King Tut), Art Deco, and film's
idea of Spain melded into an incredible amalgam of "Style".
In general, the waist was very low, the skirt was short or
handkerchief hemmed, mannish hairstyles and knockabout hats
(tams, slouche, cloche) were used. Every fabric possible was
employed and trimmed with flowers of the same or covered buttons,
or fringe or inserts of other fabrics. Furs were very evident;
monkey, leopard, lynx, and fox were the most "theatrical".
The clothes allowed for "activity" for the first time in centuries.
It was not a long period, but a wild one. |
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THE THIRTIES
Sleek, sophisticated bias cut dresses in lighter tones, including
Georgette tea dresses, important hats and bags. At first,
very long day dresses in reaction to the previous flappers.
Trimming included many buttons, belts, furs, and "costume
jewelry". |
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